We went to the pyramids! I’ve included some pictures here but there are many more under the Photos tab. Last time I was at the pyramids in Giza, the suffocating crowds and aggressive hawkers / con-artists made it impossible to enjoy, but I was really hoping that this time would be different because of the severe decline in tourism.
I was not disappointed. We found ourselves practically alone with 2 of the 3 big pyramids. Security seemed to accept and even condone people getting up close, touching, and climbing on top of the 4500-year-old monuments. It’s difficult to communicate the sheer size of these things but I hope the Where’s Waldo picture of Jack below gives you some sense.
Earlier that morning, we chatted with one of the hostel managers about the pyramids and asked if they had lost their allure to a local like him. On the contrary, he was very proud of what his ancestors achieved, “But it also makes me sad. You can see what Egyptians could make long ago with such advanced technology. Today, we Egyptians can’t even manage to finish making a building.” That sentiment seems to be a theme here. Nothing works like it’s supposed to. The politicians are ineffectual. The economy is in disarray. And all this dysfunction sits in the shadow of its great past. The contrast is in the people’s psyche: a pride in their former greatness and importance and a frustration at where they are today. When I was here last, there was fervor to this frustration, a recalcitrance among the people. Eleven years and two gainless rebellions later, it’s shifted to more of a resigned sadness.
Despite being the quintessential symbol of Egypt’s former glory, the Giza pyramids were not the ones I was most excited to see. I had heard that Saqqara and Dahshur, archeological sites even older than Giza, were fantastic but less frequented. The rumors were an understatement. We saw a grand total of 3 other tourists in our entire visit to both sites combined and the experience was absolutely breathtaking.
First, in Dahshur, we saw the Red Pyramid, which we could enter for free. We climbed through mineshafts and crawlspaces and makeshift stairs to explore the 3 refreshingly cool and pleasantly basement-smelling vaulted chambers inside. Next, we saw the Bent Pyramid (the bungled first draft of the Red Pyramid, which in turn was the first draft for those at Giza). Jack entered this one alone – my muscles needed a rest – and came out looking almost spiritually moved. I think he was a bit shaken at being completely alone so deep inside a perilous 26th century tomb in the middle of the desert.
It was all amazing but my favorite part has to be Saqqara. We started by entering King Teti’s pyramid. From the outside this looks like a big mound of rubble. However when we lifted our heads into the first chamber we found ourselves surrounded by hieroglyphs. Not little pieces or faint suggestions of some old etchings. They looked like they had been carved a few weeks ago. In the next chamber we found an original sarcophagus that hadn’t been stolen or put in a museum because it was too big to get through the door. You could climb inside it if you wanted, no one was there.
After Teti we visited a temple across the street that had tons of preserved engravings. There were carvings of people dancing and instructions on how to hunt and fish and bury the dead. Some still had the original colors from 2330 BC! We closed off the day by visiting the oldest pyramid in the world. Wtf.
Thank you for sharing your adventures with us! We are enjoying following along. What forms of transportation are you using to get around? How is the weather? How was the camel ride?
Thanks so much for following along! Uber has actually been a godsend for casual travel, much easier than the haggling with taxis I had to do last time. We also walk a decent amount, but for the more intensive pyramids trip we hired a driver for the day ($33). During the day the temperatures get to highs of ~104 which is definitely hot but it’s dry so it feels very different than that would in Boston and it’s actually pretty manageable in the shade. The nights can be downright lovely. Jack and I have both ridden camels before so we almost skipped it but it was actually more fun than we expected! More than anything, we were happy not to walk through those sand dunes by foot. Hope you and Meredith and Sydney are well!
Amassing post Mano love it
This is so cool and features great detail and writing! Glad to see y’all are having fun!
Wow guys, what an amazing depiction of this wonderful visit. Loved reading it. I think Jack will have to demonstrate the dance move in person when we meet…wonder “walk like an Egyptian” originates from there? Being on top of 4500 years old monument must be a surreal moment and what must have gone through minds. Can Jack write about his spiritual experience in Bent Pyramid please. I am amazed to hear about your visit to King Teti’s pyramid and hieroglyphs being in such condition, wonder how is that possible after all this time. That picture of Jack somewhere in the middle of pyramid is good one, provides proper context of the might of that pyramid. My next trip to Egypt has to be with you, I’ve been there but after reading your journal, I feel like it was just a photo-opp for me. Love you, Travel Safe.