The other day we went in search of the apartment building I stayed in when I was here in 2010 in a part of town called Garden City, also where many of the embassies are located. This used to be a ritzy area so you can find several ornate buildings that were clearly beautiful once but have been eaten away by Cairo’s relentless beige rust.
We had a surprising amount of trouble finding a way into the neighborhood: most entrances were closed off (by these charming faux-hieroglyphed building blocks) and when we finally found openings they were guarded by stern-looking police and military officers casually holding assault rifles. Turns out they were all bark and no bite – they ignored the ringing of the metal detectors we were ushered through, with one officer (“Woman Police” written on her uniform) not even bothering to look up from her phone. We simply walked around the next security checkpoint and were met with lazy shrugs.
I didn’t remember quite this much security last time I was here and the neighborhood was much quieter than back then: no fruit sellers or sandwich shops, very little foot traffic. Makes me sad to think this shift in an area I remember so fondly was likely a scar of the turmoil the country faced shortly after I left.
We turned that day around by going to a delicious Yemeni restaurant for dinner in Dokki, opposite main Cairo on the west side of the Nile. I’ve been dreaming about Yemeni food ever since I had it once the last time I was here and it did not disappoint. Try fahsa if you ever get the chance. Yemeni is completely communal, so we received no cutlery or even plates. I taught Jack to eat rice with his hands. The bread was phenomenal and my picture here doesn’t do justice to its size, it was folded in half twice. We also loved walking around the more middle-class community in Dokki afterwards.
You can see some pictures of Dokki below and, as usual, more photos in the Photos tab.
That bread 😍
My thoughts exactly! That bread 🤤
I can back off from my diet for that bread…man it looks GOOOD!
I absolutely love reading your posts and actually wait for it.
Seems like it was slightly disappointing visit to Garden City, but looks like your trip to Dokki made up for it and that bread can make up for any tough day specially when it’s fresh…man I am salivating and feeling hungry and thinking of skipping my diet meal and go for some real hot and fresh carbs..
Hi!
Good people, I really enjoyed all the details you sent but also was sad to hear the ruins of the places you loved.
You should have taken a video of Jack eating rice with hands for us to see it lol 🤣 I saw finally he got some cutlery to enjoy pancakes.
Have a great time, may Mowla keep both of you safe please be very careful lv you both <3
Haha you’re so right, I should have gotten a video of that! Thank you for the well-wishes and prayers Habiba Khala, love you too :)
I am so jealous of the food you’re eating…and I know it’s just the beginning! I feel like everything is so bland in the US after looking at your photos. I’m so glad you’re having a blast! Can’t wait to continue reading about your adventures. Love and miss you guys!
Thank you for including me in your adventure. Wish you needed a chaperone. I can eat with bread and my fingers. Was it spicy. Like Indian? Will this turn into a book? Luv
Aw we’d love a chaperone! It was spiced but not spicy, more tangy and meaty. I love spicy food but it’s refreshing to find dishes that figure out how to be packed with flavor in other ways. I wouldn’t get your hopes up about a book but I appreciate your faith in me!